Long time ago...
With Bishal Rai we have a great and long story with Himlung Himal.
We meet us in 2002 during the first French guided expedition on Himlung and since we do expedition together. At that time Bishal was simple porter and even could not speak a single word english. Now he is a trained Trekking Guide, a Sirdar of 8000 expedition and run Himalayan Travellers.
We conduct many Himlung Expedition this last years : from 2014 we promote the new normal route, succeed the first climb of the south ridge and the first traverse of Himlung (without fixe rope and in alpine style).
Of course, we know very well Himlung and the Phu valley.
It’s our favorite mountain and we are very happy to propose it as our fist expedition guided by our team of Nepali Guides.
In the village of Phu we are also a little «at home».
Himlung Himal is now a classic summit with a lot of expedition every autumn, then we will be sure not alone.
Himlung is one of the most accessible 7000 in Nepal, but not the easiest. Putha Hiunchuli in South Dolpo is technically more simple but more complicate and expensive to organize.The trekking from Koto, on the Annapurna circuit, is superb and provide a good acclimatation with some days in Phu to discover the landscape of the Nepal Himalaya’s and the life of this remote place in a Tibetan cultural sphère.
The climb start without difficulty up to camp 3 in a high mountain scenery, but the last day is long and straightforward. The snow slope of the west ridge (around 30 to 35°) need really good skills in mountaineering. You need to by very safe on your crampons, in particular during the descend after the summit.
And this is why we organize this expedition on a basis of « One by One »:
one Nepali climber for one foreign climber.
For more pleasure and safety…
We also would climb Himlung Himal in a continue style because after more than fifteen years of experiences we believe this is the less traumatic way to climb the Himalayan high summit, with a good opportunity to be well acclimatize and the pleasure of a deep immersion in high altitude.
Climbing with main rope on a glacier is also our credo in mountaineering as our culture is the alpine style with a real guiding relationship and a close proximity between the climbers, for more safety.
Dhan Magar will be the Nepali Mountain guide of this Himlung Expedition 2018.
According to the technical topo-guide, the difficulty of the climb is IV/PD+ in Himalayan grading and you need to be an experienced mountaineer in the Alps with previous expeditions in Nepal on smaller peak.
You need to have a good insurance for mountaineering : the CAF high mountain extension. And a week end will be organize in the Alps during the summer to prepare the expedition with Paulo Grobel.
Of course, you have to manage yourself your international plane tickets who are not include in our package. And you have to be on time at our expedition starting meeting.
More informations about the trekking route or the climb can be found on this pages of the website of Paulo Grobel.
All the texte is in French but it is easy to translate now with Google.
The date of this Himalayan Travellers Himlung Expedition 2019.
From Sunday September 29, 2019 to Monday28 , 2019.
A classic 7000 peak of Nepal.
Without objective danger.
In a great region, with a beautiful approche to Phu village.
Not a easy summit...
But a summit we know very well.
An expedition in "Continue Style"
And a guiding ration of One by one.
The Bishal & Paulo "Swiss" quality !
And much more...
The itinerary of this Himlung Expedition is classic, but the way to do it is specific to Himalayan Travellers.
1... After the expedition meeting and a night at Padma Hotel, we will stay a day around Boudhanath to finish the paper process and pack all our equipment.
2... A early start in the morning and two days of travel by bus and jeep to Besisahar and Koto. Not really a pleasant time !
3… The trek to Phu and the Base Camp will take 5 days, with a rest day in Phu for a better acclimatization.
4… We will not stay a lot at Base Camp because we are in a continue style moving. Also, we don’t build a super confortable camp with full of unnecessary services. Just the right things we need.
5… Above French Camp, the climb really start at camp 1. This will be an important base for us, because the transition between roc and glacier is not so easy and change every year.
I don’t like the upper way in rocky slope with mostly fixe rope and if possible, we will use the glacier track with main rope.
After this, it’s easy on glacier up to Camp 3, and may be Camp 4, like we do in spring 2017 for the Himlung Traverse. This would give us more chance for the summit but it cost time & effort to be set up. We will decide according also to snow conditions & time management.
6… Generally, after the summit, we sleep again in Camp 3. And we move to Kari Kobler BC just the next day and direct.
7…After packing and cleaning at BC, the way down is quick & fast. We go home !
8… We will be very soon in Kathmandu and at Padma Hôtel for a last dinner in front of the big Stupa.
We propose only full organised expedition, from Kathmandu to Kathmandu.
And in an "ALL INCLUDE" mode.
Even if some things are NOT include (just have a look at the end of this page).